I have been busy and the car has waited. Now i should chenge the cylinder
head gasket and build the ignition box. This
picture shows the ignition
box the amplifier and the programming tool kits and the 1.5 bar MAP sensor.
Here is photo of the ignition box
components. I havent done much electronics so we'll see how this turns
I messed up the programming tool assembling so I must get a new kit and
the ignition box must wait.
Changing the cylinder head gasket.
There is an intake preheater (part #102 141 02 44) which looks like this
3). This device must be bad for
intake air flow and it cuts down the flow area. The resistance is about
0.8 ohms so the heating power is about 180 W @ 12V and 230 W @ 13.5V. I
wonder if it has to be there in the summer time / in the winter time / at
all? I guess I'll leave it out and test the cold driving without it. (This
part has not been on all MB 190 year models.)
Intake manifold / air preheater.
The sylincer head job is ready. Here are some pics from the
front side, under side,
intake side and
exhaust side. The head was
skimmed by 0.006" (0.15 mm). The valves and seats were ground and the
exhaust bosses and all the boss rubber sealings were renewed by local
Skimmed cylinder head.
The inlet valve size is 1 11/16" (43
mm) and the size of the inlet port is 1 9/16" (40 mm) at the surface and 1
1/2" (28 mm) about half an inch deeper and on the exhaust valve size is 1
17/32" (39 mm) and the port 1 29/64" (37 mm) and 1 11/32" (34 mm). The
cylinder head is a typical cross flow head with hemispherical combustion
The cam timing may have been one tooth early which would mean 20 degrees
on the crankshaft. Now it is about 4 degrees lake on the crankshaft. Hope
this will make the engine run a little better.
Finally got the car running again. Had a little trouble with the chain
tensioner sealing which let a lot of oil out at start up. The engine seems to start and warm
up OK despite the missing preheater in the intake manifold.
The power is OK, but the knock is about
the same. The ignition must be in the N position and I must watch the
throttle. I'm still waiting for the aussie parts to get the ignition box
I put the intake air sensor back once again. Ran a quartermile in 15.88
and the speed was a little under 87 mph (140 km/h). This was the first 15
second run! 0-62 mph (1-100 km/h)
took 7.88 seconds, so I'm on the right path! The knock came in the third
gear so I had to back off the throttle. The engine stalls at 4700 rpm in
I tested the fuel pressure regulator with boost feed, but the mixture went
leaner, not richer, in higher revs. The fuel pressures seem to be OK and
fuel distributor plunger has some shine marks on it but it moves freely in
it's cylinder. It seems like the CIS-E doesn't like to have boost in the
fuel distributor. The pressure in the upper side of the plunger makes the
mixture weaker. The dilemma with the CIS-E is that lack of power can be
caused by too low gas pressure or feed or too high fuel pressure.
I got the programmable ignition running but the joy didn't last for long.
It worked for a few test drives and then went permanently in the silent
mode. I cahanged a few transistors but it didn't help. I got no support
from the seller's web site or forum. The next step will be to buy a
Boost Timing Masterin when I'm sure it works with Bosch EZL ignition.
I got a 2.5" stainless cat from
USParts for a reasonable price. I
bought a 2.5" stainless exhaust pipe from
Martelius and had it welded to the
cat at Mankinen machine
shop, where the customer service and the quality of the worj were very
good. I went there on a Friday in July 12.30 in the afternoon and got the
job back before 3 o'clock!
I changed the whole exhaust pipe to
2.5" with no silencers. I found a bad looking crack in the exhaust
manifold. I must take the manifold off and have it welded.
After the Kalajoki FHRA nationals (just watching) I got a new intercooler
from New Zealand. The core dimensions are length in flow direction 12.5"
(320 mm), width 12" (300 mm) and thickness 3 1/8" (80 mm). I must drop the
radiator lower to get the intercooler hoses to run over it.
The intercooler core.
The operation manifold - exhaust pipe - intercooler - ignition box is
almost ready. I adde a straight thru end silencer to the pipe. I ordered
the Boost Timing Master from the U.S. on Saturday a week ago and it came
to the customs mail last Tuesday. Delivery in a little over one week, not
I took away the turbo manifold when putting the new intercooler in place.
It has a long crack under the flange:
Here is the fixed manifold in place
The exhaust pipe is OK now and the Boost Timing Master is rady for test drives. The box
seems to work and now strts the fine tuning with ignition timing and fuel
mixtures. The auto gear box seems to slip when changing from first to
second and from second to third. I'll try to moke the upshifts tighter by
injusting the valve in the gear box. It is located in a real tight spot on
the dreiver side of the 722.4 box.
I tightened the shifts by one full turn. The best run now is firstname.lastname@example.org
mph (150.7 km/h). The temperature was around 43 degrees F (6 deg C). The
electrical target lambda was 0.85 (AFR 12.5) and the actual mixture was
between 0.76 and 0.90 (11.2 - 13.2) during the run. The final speed gives
a theoretical 180 rwhp. Not bad for an 18 year old Mercedes!
Best run in the year 2008 in seconds
...and fuel mixtures and rpm